How to identify high-quality cashmere products?
1. Fiber Source:
- Origin: Quality cashmere is typically sourced from regions known for their high-grade cashmere, such as Mongolia, China, and parts of Iran and Afghanistan.
- Goat Breed: The type of goat also affects fiber quality. The Capra hircus goat, especially the varieties found in Mongolia and Inner Mongolia, are known for producing the finest cashmere.
2. Fiber Fineness:
- Micron Count: One of the most critical factors in cashmere quality is the fineness of the fibers. High-quality cashmere fibers usually have a diameter of 14-16 microns. The finer the fiber, the softer the yarn will be.
- Uniformity: Consistency in fiber diameter throughout the yarn ensures even softness and reduces the chances of pilling.
3. Fiber Length:
- Longer Staples: Longer fibers (staple length) usually produce stronger, more durable yarns with less pilling. High-quality cashmere typically has a staple length of 34-42 mm.
- Shorter Staples: Shorter fibers can lead to more pilling and a less smooth yarn.
4. Dehairing Process:
- Quality Control: The dehairing process involves separating the fine undercoat fibers from the coarse guard hairs. Efficient dehairing ensures that the yarn is soft and smooth. The presence of guard hairs can make the yarn rough and prickly.
5. Spinning Method:
- Combed vs. Carded: Combed spinning methods align the fibers parallel to each other, producing a smoother and stronger yarn. Carded yarns may feel fluffier but can be less consistent in quality.
- Tension and Twist: Proper tension and twist during spinning affect the final texture and strength of the yarn. Too much twist can make the yarn feel firm, while too little can make it weak.
6. Dyeing and Finishing:
- Natural vs. Dyed: Natural (undyed) cashmere retains its natural softness and is generally preferred for high-end applications. However, high-quality dyeing techniques should not compromise the softness or integrity of the fibers.
- Finishing Techniques: Proper finishing processes, such as washing and conditioning, ensure the yarn maintains its softness and luster.
7. Purity:
Blends vs. 100% Cashmere: Pure cashmere yarns are more luxurious and command a higher price. Yarn blends that include other fibers (like wool or synthetic fibers) can reduce the cost but may also reduce the softness and warmth associated with pure cashmere.
8. Pilling Resistance:
- Fiber Quality: Higher-quality cashmere with longer and finer fibers tends to pill less.
- Routine care, including gentle hand washing and avoiding rough surfaces, also helps reduce pilling over time.
9. Moisture Wicking and Insulation:
Natural Properties: Cashmere naturally wicks moisture and provides excellent insulation. These properties are maintained in high-quality yarns, making them ideal for garments in varied climates.
Tips for Identifying High-Quality Cashmere Yarn:
- Touch and Feel: High-quality cashmere should feel incredibly soft and luxurious to the touch. It should not feel scratchy or rough.
- Price Point: Genuine high-quality cashmere is expensive due to the labor-intensive process of harvesting and processing the fibers. Be wary of low-cost cashmere.
- Vendor Reputation: Purchase from reputable suppliers known for their quality standards and sourcing practices.
- Examine the Yarn: Look for evenness in the yarn thickness and check for excessive fluff or loose fibers, which may indicate lower quality.